Method of lasting shoes



oca. 2, 19237., 1,469,222

F. N. LA CHAPELLE METHOD-0F LASTING sHoEs Patented @et 2, i923.

narran stares aries.

retain e FRED N. LA OHArsLLn, or BEVERLY, iriissaoirusnm'rs, iissiGNonTo UNi'inn siion, Y

i/iaoniiriiiirv CORPORATION, or iArnnsoN, NEW Jansen-CORPORATION or` NEWJERSEY.

ianriion or LasTiNG siions.l

Application filed July 14, 1919. Serial No. 310,722.

rl'his invention relates to methods of lasting boots and shoes andparticularly to methods in which successive portions of the uppers areprogressively lasted. Y I

` It has been proposed to last shoes by means of a string laced back andforth `from Yside to side ot1 the upper and passing.VV freely throughthe margin of the. upper, the :upper being drawn in by pulling on thestring which placed all lasted portions oi' the upper undersubstantially the samelasting tension. This method takes no account ofthe Y fact that different parts oi. a shoe upper consists inlastimg`a'portionk ot'upper atV i lengthwise ot' the shoe may and usually dorequire to be. diiilerently tensioned, and-an object orn this inventionAis to provide a method by which portions'of a shoe upper on opposite.sides oi2 the shoe may not only be held under substantially equaltension but by which successive portions of the upper lengthwise of theshoe may be put under any desired tension and iiXedly fastened.

A `further object of the invention is to provide amethod of lastingwhich will en- .I able a cheaper and weaker iiinersole tobe successfullyemployed.

In one aspectthe .invention providesa method by 'which portions ofanupper ony l Y which'consists in lasting and securing ytixedoppositesides oi" a shoe may' be lasted in turn and'each secured 'to aninnersole, the lasting of opposed portions oi upper in Ythis mannerbeing'repeated wise of the shoe. l f

AAs herein exemplified, the present method Vone' side of the shoe,`tying 'oi-.fastening a thread to thatvportion of the upper, lasting aportion of upper at the opposite side oi the shoe, passing'thethreadunderftension to that Yside jot the shoe and-securing the tensionedvportion of the upper onfthat side to the lthread by a lockedstitchforv-knot formed in thel tensioned thread', then lasting a portionof upper at the first sideV of the vtening employed;

progressively lengthn shoe in advance of the portion iirstv lasted,passing the thread under tension back to that side of the shoe andiixedly fastening it to the upper byl a similar stitchformed in thethread, these operations beingrepeated progressively lengthwise oftheshoe.

In another aspect the method consists in updrawing and overdrawing aportion -of upper at one side ofthe shoe,` forming a thread `fasteningor locked4 stitch through the innersole and upper to hold the lastedportion of the upper lasted in fixed position, .then updrawing andoverdrawing avportion of1 thel upper atfthe opposite side oi the shoe,

Vand fastening the'V lasted portion iXedly to the innersole by a similarthread-fastening,

the operations of lasting and securing the upper being carried onalternately on the opposite sides ofthe shoe and progressivelylengthwise of the shoe. Preferably a single thread is employed andbetween the thread 'fastening Operations a portion of, thread is carriedunder tension across the shoe bottom, each portionbeing fixedlyrfastenedto the innersole and upper at each end. The transverse runs of the'thread tend, therefore, to strengthen the. innersole and to as# sist inholding the upper inlasted position. In the-'drawingf-Q l Fig.lrepresents the bottom of a welt shoe lasted in accordance-with themethod of the present invention; Y y, Fig. 2 isa perspective view oi'- aMcKay shoe lasted in accordance with the present invention;v I' i Fig. 3is perspectivejdetail, partly/in section,*illustratingl the' form of;thread JfasvFig.'i-'represents al step inthel method l'v'by a stitch they upper at one lside ot'the shoe and Vformed on the opposite-side of theshoe."`

In carrying out the g'orese'nt'v method 'an :innersole and upperareassembled on a last.'

as usual and,1if 4desi-red,the .toe and heel of 'the shoemay be lastedinany usualmany ner. As shown the heel-seat of the shoe`v has been lastedby turni-ng.inwardlygthegupper aboutrthe Vheel-seat andV securing itperinanently in place by ytacks-a. `The toe may-lbs lasted, for example,Ona vbed.machine'and secured by tacks iit isa McKay shoe e) aaa bybin-sing Wife d if' it is a." Weit shoe (Fig. l). lt is to beunderstood,

v however, that it is not necessary first to last i Fig. 4..

the ends of the shoe but' lthatthe Vpresent method 0i' lasting mayprecede the end lasting' if desired,.also the extent to Vwhich the sidelasting is carried toward the shoe ends may vary in different classes ofwork.

Assuming, for the sake of illustration, that the, ends of the shoe havebeen lasted 'as shown in FigjQ, the side lasting is been-n, for example,at the point c. rrrlhe upperad- 'jacentto this point is seized'hy aQ anddrawn upwardlyv and then preferably carried `over theY last bottom` asshown in A needle 6 'carrying a 'thread tliroughaii eye lin yits pointisthen passed throiigh the upper and withdrawn, forming a loop 8,.the loopbeing held from withdrawing 'lroni the lneedle by a hook tliigjer .9.The 'iieedle and shoe are then moved relatively lengthi'vise"oil theshoe vand theV second movement of the needle forms a loop l() throughVwhich the first loop V8 is passed `'by the finger QY'andyintelr asshown in Fig. 3, to iorm afixedthread Vloop fasteningfor loop lockedvstitehior the f lend .of the thread. The shoe and needle are at eachend, vthis method constitutes a very ellective way of fastening an upperin lasted position and since eachdindividual 'portion of tthe upper isseparately tensioned and hxedly 'secured to a corresponding portion onYthe opposite side of the shoe each othese Y portions-willnaturally beunder substantially ythe'same lasting; tension. Various'opposed lastedpertioiis'lengthwise ot' the shoe, however, Vare independently held withno Y possibility of slacking and Aiiiayhe under vthe vdesired differentlastingu` tensions "such as are appropriate for different portions otthe lupper lengthwise of theshoe. his method,V

therefore, iis essentially distinct Yfrom prior methods in which theopposite sides otpan upper are laced together-by a cord which .passesthrough the upper first on Vone 'sideY of the shoeand 'then on the otherside of the sh'oe without being ixedly securedftoV the upper at` thepoints of passage. '.The;

' method as sdescribed, frtlieiefoie, constitutes a very effectivewayptV fastening in lasted position the uppersol'slioes of various kindsand vis, particularly applicable tothe manufacture o't'wtackless McKay.shoes or, as

shown;Y Qi McKay' shoes which are tackless as to the sides where Vtacksare objectionable. l desired, however, the upper 'locked therewith,

may be secured to the innersole at few points hy tacks /c to hold theinsole better in place during the McKay sewingl operation.

iis'showii vin Fig. l, however, and las usually practiced, the presentmethod is applied to weltj shoes the'innersoles of which are providedwith sewing ribs. lli/hen thusY applied the Vfastening ot' the thread ismade, after tensioning` a portion of the upper as described, through theupper and innersole rib It, the upper being thus iixedly attached totherib at that point, for example,l as at c in Fig. 1. A portion oit theupper at the opposite 'side of the shoe is then tensioned `and the shoeland needle moved relatively to place the thread under tension and toenable a stitch to be formed at the point fiXedly to secure the upperand innersole rib together at that side, the operations being. of courserepeated alternately on opposite sides of the shoe until the toe portionalready lasted is reached. rllhe transversel runs Y of thread extendingunder tension-across the innersole tend very `iiiatei'ially to`strengthen the shoe and hence in this methodV of Ylasting` a weaker andcheaperinneitsole may be used. The 'stitchl herein shown ,isY

kmade iniaccordance with the vmethod dise closed and claimed in UnitedStates Letters Patent No. 1,185,1O7Vgraiited May 3, .1916, oi myapplication and need not be further described herein. Thisiorni ofstitch has been found effective for the purpose particu- Y larly when awaxed thread is used. It is to be understood, however, that other formsof stitch may he employed particularly stitches that are Seli locked77to the material, that is, are locked by formations produced in a singlethread.

Having thus described my invention', whatV I claim as new and desire tosecure by Letters YPatent oit the United States is: y

l. That improvementpin methods of lasting shoes which 'consists intensioning;Y a portion of upper-Jon one side oi'a shoe, s curing athread to said portion lof the upper by a locked stitch at that side olfthe shoe,

imi

then tensioningv a portion ol" upper on the 'Y opposite side roi theshoefand securiiigthat portion of the upper hyalocked stitch, and thenrepeating the operations steplby step lengthwise ofthe shoe. y i, r Y

2. That improvement Viii/methods of last'- ing-shoes whichconsists iiialternately lasting portions ot the upper Von oppoiste'sides ofthe Yshoeandnseparately fastening each lasted portion oie` the-upperunder:tensionl by knotting -it innen-slipping relation tura 3. Thatimprovement in methods of last'- ing' shoes which consists inalternatelylasting portions ofthe upper onopposite sidesV of the shoeandLseparately fasteningeach lasted portion of the upper under tensionVto the rib of an linnersole.

z the bottoni ot the shoe and fiXedly attaching it to the upper on theotherside of the shoe.

6. That improvement in methods of lasting shoes which consists inupdrawing and overdrawing successive portions of an upper alternately onopposite sides of the shoe progressively lengthwise of the shoe, andsecuring a thread to the upper by a locked stitch iirst on one side ofthe shoe to secure a hold on the lasted portion and then carrying thethread under tension to the other side of the shoe and securing it by Valocked stitch to another lasted portion.

7. That improvement in methods of lasting shoes. which consists inupdrawing and overdraiving successive portions of an upper alternatelyon opposite sides of the shoe progressively lengthwise of the shoe,securing the upper'by a stitch rst at one side ofthe shoe to secure alasted portion of the upper, and then passing the thread under tensionto the other side of the shoe and securing a lasted portion'o'f theupper at that side oi"- the shoe by a stitch in the same thread Whilemaintaining the thread under tension.

S. rlhat improvement in methods of lasting shoes which consists inupdravving and overdraiving successive portions of the up-v peralternately' upon opposite sides of the shoe progressively lengthwise ofthe shoe,

passing a continuous thread fromside to side ot the shoe, andl formingWith the thread loop locked stitches tohold the upper alternately at thetivo sides of the shoe ast-he lasting progresses.

9. That improvement in methods of last- `ing shoes which consists intensioning al portion of a shoe un )er at one sidevof the shoe i y a.passing a loop of thread through the upper,

holding the loop from retracting, .passingf another loop through theinnersole rib and f upper adjacent to the tirst loop, inter-locking oneloop with thel other loop, then lasting a portion of the upper atftheother side of the shoe and securing it to the thread in the same mannerthat the -irst portion Was secured. Y Y

10. That improvement in methods of last ing shoes which consists inlasting and securing theV upper by thread loops entering and securingthe upper by similarfl'oops at the opposite side ofthe shoe.L

11. Thatimprovementin methods of lasting shoes Whichconsistsin lastingYandsecuring, a lportionof the upper' by a" looplocked stitchat one sideof the shoe, passing theY thread under tension tothe other' side 'of theshoe, and thenl lastingfandsecuring by a loop-locked stitch in thelthread a portion of upper at thel opposite side of the shoe. s

12. Tha-t improvement in methods of lasting shoes which consistskinupdraiving and overdravving successive portions of an upperalternately on opposite sides of the shoe progressively lengthwise ofthel shoe, and securing the upper by a self-locked stitch lirst at oneside of the shoe to secure a lasted }A3ortion,vthen-carrying the threadto the other side of the shoe and securing another lasted portion in thethread.

13. That improvementin.methods of last- Y by anotherself-loclred stitchY of the length of the shoe first on one side of y the shoe and then onthe other side of the shoe, and fastening the lasted portions' to theinnersolev by stitches formed in the thread rst at one side of the shoeand then at the other side of the shoe. t Y

15. That improvement in methods of lasting shoes Which consists inlasting and ser i the rib of thev innersole a'p'ortion of the up- 16.That improvement in methods of last'- ing shoes which consists 1nlasting and seper on one side of the shoe, and then lastf ing andsecuring a portion of the upper aty the opposite side of the shoe to therib of the innersole. f Y 1,7. That improvement in methods of lastingshoes which consists in tensioning a porthrough the lnnersole ril) andupper,adjer Cent to the first loop, interlocking one loop with the otherloop toseeure the upper, then lasting a portion o the upper et the.01:11.94q side of the shoe and securing it to the 'inheri- Sole rib inthe same manner that the first portion was `secured l.while maintainingthe thread between `the secured Aportions under tension.

ingshoes whichoonssts in passing a oozi-V 18. That. improvement metllOdS0f 13S@ timioiis thiead frein Side tO-side Y.0f the "Shoe,

lasting portions v0f the upper ,at the tvv@V sigles ofthe shoealternately progressively lengthwise of the shoe, and progressively `indalternately fastening thlajsted portions fxedly to the innersole bysttehee' Vformeel the thread: t

In testimony whereof I have signed my .nameto this specification. i

FRED N. LA CHAPELLE.

